In the middle of 17th century, Evliya Çelebi mentions 23 caravansarays in Sarajevo. In 1878 there were 50 caravansarays in Sarajevo. There were Hans which had their distinctive names. Among them is „Kolobara“ in Sarajevo, Čardagija in Mostar,…etc. In towns a Han has often been built next to hammams ( a public bath) and also their are some folk poems which mention these hans.
Photo: entrance to Kolobara
Starting from 1462 until the first decades of 17th century, there wasn’t almost any renown endowment (waqf) without a han. Hans were bulit either in Baščaršija square (old part of Sarajevo) or in its immediate vicinity. There were cases where it was built on the outskirts of the town (e.g. Cicin Han in Sarajevo). Among those hans in Baščaršija, there is Isa Bey’s Han i.e. Kolobara, which was built just before 1462 as it can be seen from the endowment of The Isa Bey Ishakovic (who was Bosnian orderer and Bosnian sanjak-bey from 1464-1470). He has built a bridge over the river Miljacka (in Sarajevo), a public bathroom, traveller’s inn, a few mills on Miljacka, a palace or a saray which Sarajevo was named after. To maintaim his endowment he ordered from the royal estates the following: All the mills, which are located under one roof and one mezra behind these mills located in the mentioned village, a bathroom and water for its needs and the remaining water from the bathroom and a Han with shops that were built in. In the 18th century, some Sarajevo’s Hans have become the meeting place of rebellious janichars (infantry), who were than in the final phase of their existence. These hans in the beginning of 19th century have been held by three prominent janichars. Kolobara was held by Pino Bajraktar, Novi Han wa sheld by Mustafa (later called Đul’s Han) and the other Novi Han by Ibrahim-aga Morić (later called Morića Han).
Photo: Entrance to Morića’s Han
Photo: There is a National restaurant within Morića Han now
Photo: entrance to Kolobara
When some unfit decree arrived from Istanbul or a decree from Travnik, agas from Sarajevo used to gather in Kolobara Han in order to deliberate against the sultan or vizier. It was recorded by a folk poem „Abdurahman pasha cut Sarajevo’s bash’s“. There are these versus:
Pasha asks his ferdzumans
„Who rides on a cormorant?“
It is Pinjo, oh my bajraktar
His coffee is in the middle of Kolobara
When Saray agas want to
When they want to make a Council
They don’t go to mula
They go to Pinjo Bajraktar.“
Caravansarays and hans, as buildings of various construction, have been destroyed by fire and time, but they have been re-built again. Itis oficially known that Kolobara burned in 1697, 1788, 1831, 1842, 1852, 1937, 1992 and 2012. In these fires mostly the upper part of the building has been burned down. In the yard of Kolobara, there was a shadrwan ( a yard ornament that has a purpose of a fountain, in translation means „flowing che of a pool and fountain“), which burned down on the 9th July 1842 along with 2000 other objects in Sarajevo charshija. Probably, water dried from the Isha Bey’s water-supply from Bistrik, which supplied hammam and the other objects. In addition, Kolobara was also supplied from the water-supply in Mošćanica and Hrvatin. Modern water-supply have been constructed, the old fountain in Kolobara have been dissapeared and Kolobara was partially burned on 29th December 1937 at about 8 p.m. and the following year it was totally destroyed.